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Rats, Mice, Rodent Removal

Rodent Elimination & Biology

This page is a site map for rodent control products as well as biology, description and habits of common household rodents.  Rats (Roof Rat, Norway Rat) and mice (House Mouse) have their own peculiarities to be considered when undertaking a rodent control job.  Knowing the habits and biology of the rodent that has invaded your home or business will help you choose the correct rodent control products.
You will also find the description and ordering information of the many rodent control products (humane live traps, rat and mouse snap traps, rat glue traps, mouse glue boards, rodent baits, rat and mouse repellent) used to eliminate these pests in homes, apartments, warehouses, restaurants and other food handling establishments.
When multiple rodents have been in a structure there is often an odor problem that is caused by rodent bodies in inaccessible areas.  Many rodent related odors are caused by urine and fecal matter left behind by rats and mice.  The odor elimination page can help you find a product to reduce or eliminate such rodent odors.  Pest control operators often use Epoleon NnZ to take care of offending odors such as those caused by rat or mouse populations.

The three most common rodents sharing our households, restaurants, warehouses, barns and other buildings are the House Mouse, Norway Rat, Roof Rat.

HOUSE MOUSE
Mice Biology
Mouse control
NORWAY RAT
Norway Rat Biology
Rat control
ROOF RAT
Roof Rat Biology
Rat Control

Traps     Baits     Repellents
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Mouse Elimination

Dead Mouse Odors
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There are four basic steps to implement when confronting a mouse infestation:

  1. Inspection
  2. Sanitation
  3. Exclusion
  4. Population Reduction (Traps, Baits, Repellents)

In order for your rodent control program to be effective (as well as efficient) on a long term basis, all four basic steps should be implemented.

Inspection: There are ten signs that a professional should look for when conducting their initial (and follow-up) inspection: Droppings, tracks, gnaw marks, burrowing, runways, grease marks, urine stains, live or dead rodents, rodents sounds and rodent odors. A good inspection gives you a better idea of the size of the population and the routes taken by the rodents. As you will see in Population Reduction, you must intercept the rodents. Proper placements of baits, traps or live traps depend on your inspection!

Sanitation: In order for a large population of rodents to flourish, there has to be an abundance of food and water, as well as easy access to a cozy nesting site. By removing or reducing the factors that make any pest population abundant, you remove and reduce the pest. This is the backbone of Integrated Pest Management! Sanitation does imply that you live or work in a pig pen. Proper storage of possible rodent food, removal of undesirable vegetation (grass, weeds) and taking care of rubbish, lumber piles or old equipment are just a few examples of good sanitation practices. Homeowners must also realize that pet foods and wild bird feed are all tasty meals for rodents.

Exclusion: Controlling rats and mice by making it impossible for them to enter structures is the best way to eliminate and control indoor populations. Although this is not always feasible, exclusion should not be ignored. It is not always possible to do extensive rodent proofing, but in many cases it can be accomplished with minimum effort. A building can be rodent proofed by eliminating all openings larger than 1/2 inch for rats and 1/4 for mice. Even after this is done, rodents can slip through open doors and windows, gain access along plumbing and other utility lines or (especially in the case of mice) be transported indoors with any merchandise. Exclusion also includes repairing doors and windows that do not operate properly or shut securely. Do not forget to inspect and repair air vents that may not be in sound working order.  Incorporating the use of Rat Scat rodent repellent will also help in exclusion.

Population Reduction: To quickly reduce the population of mice, traps and/or baits are used. In some situations, the use of toxic baits are not safe, legal or desired because of possible odors. When dealing with mice, we prefer a combination of traps and baits. Consider your building, children, pets, ability to deal with possible odors and dangers to none target animals when choosing products to eliminate your mouse problem.

  • Non-chemical control with the use of traps     
  • Chemical control with the use of repellents


    RAT ELIMINATION

    Dead Rat Odors
    Top of Page

    There are four basic steps when eliminating a rat population:

    1. Inspection
    2. Sanitation
    3. Exclusion
    4. Population Reduction (Traps, Baits, Repellents) (Traps, Baits, Repellents)

    In order for your rodent control program to be effective (as well as efficient) on a long term basis, all four basic steps should be implemented.

    Inspection: There are ten signs that a professional should look for when conducting their initial (and follow-up) inspection: Droppings, tracks, gnaw marks, burrowing, runways, grease marks, urine stains, live or dead rodents, rodents sounds and rodent odors. A good inspection will give you a better idea of the size of the population and the routes taken by the rodents. As you will see in Population Reduction, you must intercept the rodents. Proper placements of baits, traps or live traps depend on your inspection!

    Sanitation: In order for a large population of rodents to flourish, there has to be an abundance of food and water, as well as easy access to a cozy nesting site. By removing or reducing the factors that make any pest population abundant, you remove and reduce the pest. This is the backbone of Integrated Pest Management! Sanitation does imply that you live or work in a pig pen. Proper storage of possible rodent food, removal of undesirable vegetation (grass, weeds) and taking care of rubbish, lumber piles or old equipment are just a few examples of good sanitation practices. Homeowners must also realize that pet foods and wild bird feed are all tasty meals for rodents.  If rats have easy access to an abundance of dog food (especially at night when feeding is heaviest), they are less likely to be attracted to your rodenticides or baited traps.

    Exclusion: Controlling rats and mice by making it impossible for them to enter structures is the best way to eliminate and control indoor populations. Although this is not always feasible, exclusion should not be ignored. It is not always possible to do extensive rodent proofing, but in many cases it can be accomplished with minimum effort. A building can be rodent proofed by eliminating all openings larger than 1/2 inch for rats and 1/4 for mice. Even after this is done, rodents can slip through open doors and windows, gain access along plumbing and other utility lines or (especially in the case of mice) be transported indoors with any merchandise. Exclusion also includes repairing doors and windows that do not operate properly or shut securely. Do not forget to inspect and repair air vents that may not be in sound working order.

    Population Reduction: To quickly reduce the population of rats, traps and/or baits are used. In some situations, the use of toxic baits are not safe, legal or desired because of possible odors. When dealing with rats, we prefer a combination of traps and baits. Consider your building, children, pets, ability to deal with possible odors and dangers to none target animals when choosing products to eliminate your rat problem.

    Non-chemical control with the use of traps

    Chemical control with the use of rodenticides

    Chemical control with the use of repellents

    Dead rodent odor elimination

    Top of Page


    Dr. T's Rat Scat (Naphthalene...7%, Sulfur...28%):
    Discontinued by manufacturer


RODENT TRAPS

BAITING FOR MICE       BAITING FOR RATS       TIPS FOR BAITING SNAP TRAPS

Tin Cat Repeating Mouse Trap -  This low profile (10 1/2" long x 6 1/2" wide  x 2 1/2" high) trap is placed lengthwise against walls where mice frequent.
Tin Cat Information Page

Victor Mouse Snap Trap - We carry only the expanded trigger, professional model snap trap.  The expanded trigger not only gives better sensitivity for those "picky eaters," it allows you a greater range of baits.
Order Individual Mouse Snap Trap

Click here to order Mouse Trap Case

 

Victor Rat Snap Trap - Same as above (mouse trap), but large enough to kill rats. 
Click here to order individual Rat Traps

Click here to order Rat Trap case

Mouse Master - This repeating mouse trap has a clear lid for easy inspection and a wind-up mechanism which flips the mice into an escape proof box.  
Wind Up Mouse Trap Information Page

Humane Live Trap : :   Rat and chipmunk trap. 18x5x5 with 3 LB shipping weight.  
Mouse and Chipmunk Trap

GLUE TRAPS

In many circumstances, glue traps (or glue boards, as they are called in the pest control industry) are employed in rodent elimination and maintenance.  In areas where food is commercially prepared, the use of rodenticides is unsafe and against federal law.  Glue traps are safe to use in homes, apartments, restaurants, hospitals, pet shops, day care centers, nursing homes and food preparation areas.  Many pest control operators prefer using glue traps in conjunction with their rodenticide program.  This captures many of the rodent pests before they die, giving a better chance of finding more carcasses before they begin to decompose and create odors.   Place traps in path of rodents, intercepting them between their nesting site and food source.

Mouse Glue Boards:  To use, simply peel paper from trap to expose glue, then place trap in areas frequented by mice, lizards, or any small pests you wish to capture.
Glue Board Order Information

Rat Glue Trays:   Non-poisonous traps for capturing rats, mice and reptiles.   Simply place glue boards in areas where pests are known to frequent.  The use of glue traps enables you to control pests without toxic baits and poisons that can harm pets and children. Each pack contains 2 rat glue trays.
Packs of Rat Glue Trays

Case of 48 Rat Glue Trays

MaxCatch:   (Catchmaster 24GRB)  This giant (18" x 10 1/2") rat glue board is excellent for capturing rats, mice, snakes and other reptiles.  
Maxcatch glue boards

Case of Maxcatch glue boards


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BAITING TECHNIQUES FOR MICE 

BAITING TECHNIQUES FOR RATS

RODENTICIDE CATALOG

RODENT TRAPS


Talon Weather Blok - (a.i. Brodifacoum) For control of Norway rats, Roof rats and House mice in and around sewers, homes, industrial, commercial, agricultural and public buildings.  Rodents may consume a lethal dose in one feeding with first dead rodents appearing four or five days after treatment begins..
Click here to order Talon Weather Blok

Fastrac Bait Packs -  (Same as Vengeance) (a.i. Bromethalin) Kills Norway Rats, Roof Rats, and House Mice. Fastrac bait is effective against anticoagulant-resistant rats and mice
Click here to order Fastrac with Bromethalin


BAITING FOR MICE:

Never Use Rodenticide Bait Inside Your House If You Have A Young Child Or Dog That Could Possibly Come In Contact With Your Bait!

  • Proper placement of baits and the distance between placements is critically important.  Where there is an abundance of food, it is especially important to place baits 8 - 12 feet apart.  This will help insure that you intercept the mouse between its harborage and possible food sources. 

  • Another useful tip is to make use of tamper resistant rodent bait stations.  Bait stations provide attractive feeding locations for mice and encourages more mice to consume more bait in a shorter time period.  They also keep your bait dry and free of dust and debris.

  • Place your baits in areas where there is evidence of mouse activity.

  • Remember that your mice live in a multi-dimensional world.  They could be above their food source (attics, cabinets, etc.) or below (basements, crawl spaces, lower floors of a building, sub floors, etc.)

  • Mice are not attracted to old, insect infested or moldy bait.   Inspect often and replace or move undesirable baits

  • Making many placements (each containing small amounts) is an important key to successfully baiting mice. 


BAITING FOR RATS: 

Never use rat baits inside your home if you have a young child or pet that could possibly come in contact with your bait!

  • Although they will readily consume bait pellets, rats most often prefer bait blocks.  The shape of bait blocks being used by professionals is more attractive to rats and encourages them to consume more bait in a single feeding.  Blocks also repel moisture better than pellets or meal.  This is very important when placing bait in burrows, under buildings, in sewers, in basements or any area frequented by rats.

  • Try to intercept the rats, placing baits between their possible harborage and food source.

  • Rat baits should be placed 15 feet apart.

  • Place baits in rat harborage such as burrows and ground voids.

  • Rats (especially Roof Rats) could be living above or below their food source.  Use this knowledge to properly place baits between the rodent pest and his food.

  • To encourage rats to eat more of your bait, place rodenticides in tamper resistant bait stations.  Not only will this give the rat a cozy place to "pig-out" on your bait, it also keeps your bait fresh and attractive to rodents.

  • Never under-feed the population!  An adult rat can consume an ounce of bait per day.  This means that a dominant rat will readily eat all that he can, and then hoard the rest of the bait from two or more bait stations, giving the rest of the population a chance to breed faster than you can kill them!

  • Inspect your bait placements on a regular basis.  Not only can you run out of bait prematurely, your bait might also be contaminated by moisture or accidentally moved out of position.

  • Once you have placed your rodenticides in their proper stations and locations, avoid moving any objects in the baited area.  The rats need time to adjust to anything new in their environment, so do not "rearrange the furniture!"

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rodents